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The Lemon Cookbook: 50 Sweet & Savory Recipes to Brighten Every Meal by Ellen Jackson

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Books : Cooking : English
 

Lemons are one of my favorite fruits. I'm almost never without a bag of those bright yellow globes full of flavor and
when they are too expensive, I always have frozen lemon juice and lemon rind in the freezer that I put up when lemons
are cheap. My cookbook collection, now well over 1000 cookbooks, contains more than one lemon cookbook but Ellen
Jackson's latest, The Lemon Cookbook: 50 Sweet & Savory Recipes to Brighten Every Meal, has quickly acquired a
prominent place of its own.

The book contains 50 lemon recipes, both savory and sweet. Unlike most of my
other lemon cookbooks, here the savory outweighs the sweet and oh my are you in for a treat. I always try to test at
least three recipes from a new cookbook before I review it. Let me tell you about the ones I've tried thus far -

TEST RECIPE #1 - LEMON MUFFINS WITH CRYSTALLIZED GINGER

Ellen's unusual recipe for Lemon Muffins with
Crystallized Ginger appears in the breakfast section. I'm always up for something new & quick for breakfast and my
baking cupboard happens to contain a wealth of ginger products at the minute, so these were first out of the oven.

If you happen to have learned to cook much prior to 1970, then you would have learned standard baking methods.
Cake and muffins use nearly identical ingredients (though muffins are usually less sweet), but they are put together
differently and show different results. Instead of using the muffin method, Ellen uses a standard butter cake mixing
method that produces a light and airy product - but isn't a muffin. It is a cupcake in no uncertain terms.

There are several different types of ginger root stewed in a sugar syrup. "Stem ginger", almost unobtainable
here in the US, is a candied ginger that is still in syrup. Candied ginger is stewed in syrup then drained and dried.
Crystallized ginger is candied, drained and then rolled in sugar to produce a "crystallized" coating. I chose
to use candied ginger and was I ever glad that I did. Had I used the crystallized ginger the recipe calls for the
cupcakes would have been FAR too sweet.

The recipe produced 17 cakes baked in standard muffin tins rather
than the 12 specified in the recipe. Everyone who tried them liked the cake part of the muffin, but most felt that the
finely chopped ginger garnish on top of the lemon glaze overwhelmed the lemon flavor.

Were I to make these
again - and I might - I would cut the sugar to 1/2 cup, use a standard muffin mixing method rather than the butter cake
mixing method and leave the extra ginger off the top.

Our rating - 3.5 stars out of 5

TEST RECIPE
#2 - PAN-SEARED HALIBUT WITH LEMON RELISH

This is a simple halibut filet seasoned with salt, pepper and
ground fennel, then seared in a butter-olive oil mixture and served topped with a spectacular lemon relish - very thinly
sliced lemon (yes, rind and all), shallots, pitted green olives, capers, a dash of salt, crushed red pepper and a bit of
olive oil. The lemon relish takes 5 minutes to throw together and should be done well in advance. Twenty minute
dinner!

I served this up with a Middle Eastern Chop Salad - cucumbers, tomatoes, red onion, chopped parsley
and mint, juice of a lemon, salt and pepper to taste - and a Curried Rice Pilaf. Not a scrap was left other than Chop
Salad, but I deliberately made far too much of that as we love it for breakfast.

Our rating - 5+ stars out of
5! The Lemon Relish, which keeps several days and improves with age, would be delicious with any white fish or even
chicken cutlets.

TEST RECIPE #3 - LENTIL - CHARD SOUP WITH LEMON, FETA AND DILL

I adore Swiss
Chard, though I can't eat all I want to any more because of the Vitamin K, so this soup really appealed to me. At the
same time, my eldest daughter is currently a house guest and she is not a soup fan. Any soup. So, it was with a bit of
trepidation I put this together this morning for lunch.

The basic soup consists of leeks, celery, shallots
and French Green Lentils (you can use regular lentils) cooked in a broth, then served garnished with a topping of creamy
feta blended with a little garlic, lots of dill, lemon juice and a bit of olive oil.

Would I make this soup
again? Oh yeah! Every last speck disappeared and even my soup-hating daughter enjoyed two big bowls of it. Long before I
make the soup again though, I'm off to the co-op tomorrow for more of the creamy sheep's milk Bulgarian Feta that I used
in the topping. That topping is going to make an absolutely superb salad dressing with the addition of some extra
oil.

Our rating - Soup - 5 Stars; Topping - 10 stars out of 5

All of the recipes in the book are
uncomplicated, easy and usually quick to make. Ellen includes a really nice selection of recipes for a variety of
unusual lemon drinks and more unusually, some really good hard to find staples like preserved lemons, homemade ricotta
and various lemon chutneys, curds and preserves.

The book is about 8 x 7 inches, nicely printed in dark blue
text that even Grandma can read without reading glasses.

Grandma's $0.02 - While there are pictures in The
Lemon Cookbook: 50 Sweet & Savory Recipes to Brighten Every Meal, you won't find a picture for every single dish.
That is far outweighed by the sheer brilliance of several of Ellen's recipes. If you never try another recipe, the Lemon
Relish and Feta-Lemon-Dill Topping from the two recipes that I tried are worth their weight in gold!

-
Grandpa, Amazon.com

Overall, I really like the recipes in this book. Many are simple enough that an
intermediate-level cook could handle them easily. I wouldn't recommend it for beginners, however. And some of the
specialized ingredients will make it difficult for those not near specialty markets. But overall, there are recipes here
to suit most tastes.

I always make at least three recipes from each cookbook I review, and this was no
exception. I'm single, and several of the recipes lend themselves well to modification to reduce number of servings. So
here are my three:

Shaved Zucchini Salad with Lemon and Marjoram: VERY nice! I love the play of the lemon,
flowery marjoram and salty romano cheese against the fresh zucchini. I cut the measurements in half to get 2 substantial
servings. This is a keeper for sure!

Pan-seared Halibut with Lemon Relish: I live in the Pacific NW, so
getting really good fresh fish is never a problem. I've done pan-seared <whatever> a lot using our local catch
(salmon, cod, halibut, bass, etc.) quite often. So the novelty here for me was the lemon relish. Oh.My. This stuff is
addictive! I can see using this for any white fish, and I may try it on chicken, too. It's a wonderful concoction of
lemons, shallots, green olives, capers, a little salt and red pepper flakes, plus olive oil. YUM!

David's
Double-Lemon Dutch Baby: I cut the recipe in half and made it in a smaller 8" skillet -- worked just fine. If
you're not familiar with a "dutch baby," it's a sort of cross between souffl? and pancake. It rises while it's
baking, then collapses into a sort of hollow "bowl" that can serve as a receptacle for all kinds of goodness.
This version has lemon in the batter as well as the topping. I added some frozen huckleberries to the finished product
and sprinkled with powdered sugar. Another keeper, not difficult to put together, either.

There are several
recipes in the Staples chapter that you use in some of the recipes (lemon-infused olive oil, lemon curd, preserved
lemons), as well as a chapter of Drinks that look particularly interesting, too.

This is a small book, only
50 recipes, but beautifully put together and photographed. Would definitely make a nice hostess gift or addition to a
cookbook collection. Solid 4 stars.

- L Mountford, Amazon.com                                                             

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